Rome

As sacred as St Peter's, as profane as the Via Veneto, the bustling capital of Italy has something for every taste and mood.

The Colosseum sums up the Roman empire, the Sistine Chapel is better than ever, the Piazza Navona remains the ultimate outdoor cafe scene.

This Way Rome is crammed with addresses -- churches, ancient monuments, parks, markets, restaurants, cafes -- priceless recommendations and practical hints, whether you're on a weekend or a fortnight's adventure.